IVY LINE

Disappearing Men

2008-02-07T13:06:00.000-08:00

A decade ago, when Tom Ford sent out burly lad dripping with sex, and before that, when Gianni Versace had rip abs and chisled backs making way on his runway, men had shape and form. Now, in the FW 08 collection, men are disappearing from fashion and boys are trotting about in $1200 suits. Most men won't be able to fit into a European 40. Shoulders will strain the fabric.

Even the NY Times took note today, to credit Dior Homme for bringing about the trend. Yet is it a trend. After all, it seems as if Hedi was creating clothing that he and his friends wanted to wear. Most of whom, were nourished by Diet Coke and Diet Coke alone. Boys on NY's runway are reflective it seems to me, of designers who are after young designers who are creating clothing that they want to wear. Isn't design just a fine tuned translation of what you want to wear, for a mass market.

Browne Circus

2008-02-05T06:12:00.000-08:00

Fashion is ALWAYS reflective of the on-goings in society. Depression era had the dance halls riled with plumage. True that people numbed their feet and threw themselves out to the point of exhaustion to put bread on the table but how is that any different to today? I can name at least six women I know who hobble home everyday and reverently take of their towering razor heels with that distict red swatch on the bottom. It is worship of the very thing that inflicts pain.

Men's wear is going that route too, though it seems mostly with the European designers. Men's wear America, hasn't gone that far. Stability is the American men. He gets up each day, puts on his tailored suit and heads out. Sensibility.

Yet watching Thom Browne's presentation, I hope it would not be a trend. I know fashion is theatrical but I have always respect Browne's designs in that he lets the clothing speak for themselves. When a man can earnestly walk down the street in trousers one palm lenght above his ankles, it does say something. Perhaps he is wryly aware of the comical nature of his surroundings, maybe he doesn't give a damn. Let the clothing speak for itself I say. Hands off createur!

Shibori Pocket Square

2008-02-04T06:00:00.000-08:00

When I lived in Paris, I used to sit on Pont des Arts and people watch. One of my favorite was an art dealer with a shop not too far from the bridge. Everyday, a perfect sharp suit and pocket square. When I saw this at the MoMA, I had to have it, even if just to own and not wear:
Shibori Pocket Square
Bunzaburo Katayama, 2002
momastore.org

You must admire the quality behind this piece. The textured effect seen on this pocket square is achieved through shibori, the Japanese process of manipulating fabric to add shape and dimension. An intricate dying process creates the dual-color effect.

F/W 08: Lacoste

2008-02-03T23:07:00.000-08:00

I've been a long time fan of Lacoste, way back during the days when "Lacoste" was spelled out inside the alligator. I don't often find myself on the tennis court but I do appreciate a well-fitted polo and so do most of my peers who actually play tennis. Yet seeing the F/W 08 presentation, I'm not sure what's going on over there. Loose billowing sweaters? Tight denim under thin sweater? Fitted bright red blazer?

I know that Christophe Lemaire has been trying to shift the image of Lacoste to demonstrate the dynamic nature of this label but perhaps it isn't a great move at this moment, especially when consumers are slowly coming to terms and putting that recognition towards Lacoste once again as a great resource of contemporary wear.

Photo: Marcio Madeira

Bubble Spotting

2008-02-03T11:50:00.000-08:00

Rumor has it that the ever glamorous Susie Bubble has come state side for the Gucci opening. A friend confirmed that she's is in the Big Apple and I had hoped to see her in the tents today. I've been reading her blog for a long time and a bit star struck. Would it be lame if I ask her for an autograph?

A las, no Bubble spotting. Comforting myself, I went to Chinatown and had bubble tea.

2New Things

2008-02-03T10:13:00.000-08:00

You'll make front closet space for these two amazing to additions to your wardrobe:

1. Mihara Yasuhiro Boots 2. Burberry Gold Button Trench

A long standing master of cool footwear in Japan, Yasuhiro drew cult-like attention when he collaborated with Puma. These industrial-touched boots can cross the fine line between day and night time. I appreciate the fine vintage finish on the leather to balance out the gold detailing.

Burberry is well into its mission of moving away from the checks and into true style that continues to support the brand's label of functional luxury and style. This jacket is a great thing to have and will work throughout the year. Add a cashmere pullover under for a nippy cold day. It'll go over great with a brown leather satchel for the best of business appointments. Gold buttons and a fine light touching blue will mark this as outstanding piece.

FW F/W 08: Slim Shapes

2008-02-02T00:11:00.000-08:00

Fitted is the word on this second day of F/W 08. Here's the breakdown:

Band of Outsider: is giving the American frat boy look a run for its money. Tight jackets in basic tones. Narrow pants with slim silhouette. Ties, bow-ties, belts with simple clean cut hair.

Obedient Sons: is telling a new story in their family saga. Despite a rough period, the boys have grown up and gone to college (say Vassar College or Sarah Lawrence). Sure, there are drunken and angst-filled nights but the guys are growing up and beginning to realize that jeans and t-shirts just aren't going to cut it with that smart and charming girl who works in the art history library.

Patrik Ervell: is doing the Scandinavian take on American men. Something new, somethings in the air for this new batch of men. The forms are cleaner, leaving all the fuss of layers and layers behind. Simplicity is a focus here. So is the growth of the American man. He's seen a bit of the world. This new guy, he isn't afraid to incorporate a bit of gold glitz into his wardrobe.

Photo: Marcio Madeira

F/W 08: Rag & Bone

2008-02-01T12:27:00.000-08:00

Lose trousers. It speaks a great volume when louse trousers grace the runway. It's the swagger of comfort in a shaky time. One should make pants lose and slouchy, as if to make a comment on the state of our country. Roomy pants so one could be free to swagger about.

Rag and Bone put brilliant jackets on top of loose and at points, worrisome pants that needed a belt and some faith to keep them up. Perhaps the inspiration came from urban wear but I truly doubt it. A quick subway ride and you'll note the change. Aside from the obscene presence of True Religion Jeans everywhere ( I blame Fergie for this), there is a noticeable change in the cut of jeans and pants alike among the 16-25 male age group. It's slimmer--not tight--but rather trimmed and complementary.

But back to the jackets. I hope global warming won't keep away the snow because I want an excuse to wear some of these beautiful, articulate, and tailored jackets in blends of silk and cashmere.

With hardware being a trend last year, I truly appreciate the modest and understated appearance of these jackets. True luxury should be felt and not seen, I was once told. Yup, I agree.

Photo: Marcio Madeira